Fishnet Tight Pattern
Hey all, I don't know about you, but I LOVE LOVE LOVE fishnets. The only thing I don't love about them is the fact that my toes always poke through the ends and by the end of the night I feel like I am about to lose them due to lack of circulation.
Enter my new fishnet pattern that I created! These are fully adjustable so they can fit tiny legs or more muscular legs like mine.
The pattern on my blog is the free pattern for the socks/thigh highs. I am in the process of creating a downloadable PDF that will include how to make them into full tights with a waistband and bottoms.
This is more of a recipe than a pattern. It is fully modifiable to create the size you would like. I have included all of the counts that fit me, with how to modify to achieve your desired fit. They can be made as below the knee socks, above the knee socks, thigh highs, or full tights with bottoms. Instructions are included for how to make this happen for you. These have a Cuban style heel and a “back seam”.
Supplies:
-800 yards Lace weight, sock weight, or light fingerling yarn in your choice of color
-3.25 mm hook
-stitch markers
-needle for sewing in ends
Stitches Used:
Ch-Chain
SC-Single crochet
EXSC-extended single crochet With loop on hook, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over pull through one loop on hook, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
DC-Double Crochet
DC2TOG-Double crochet two together.
Sl st-Slip stitch
Picot- Ch 3, sl st in 1st ch sp
St=Stitch
Gauge:
First 5 rounds is is a 2 inch by 4 inch oval.
Instructions:
Tights (make 2):
Try on the toe piece after round 7 for fit. It should fit your toes comfortably. If it is too big, pull out stitches and start with fewer in your chain. If it is too small, pull out stitches and start with more chains.
The toe and foot will be worked in the round with no joining stitches.
R1: Chain 13. SC in 2nd BB (back bump) from hook and next 11 BB. 2 SC in same BB as last SC. Mark the middle sc. SC in next 10 chain spaces. 2 SC in last ch sp. Mark 2nd st. (26 SC)
R2: 2 SC in next sc. 1 SC in each st to st before marker. 2 SC in SC before marker. SC in marked st, move marker. 2 SC in next st. 1 SC in each st to st before marker. 2 SC in st before marker. SC in marked st, move marker. (30 SC)
R3: EXSC in every st. Move markers. (30 EXSC)
R4: 2 EXSC in next EXSC. 1 EXSC in each EXSC to st before marker. 2 EXSC in st before marker. EXSC in marked st, move marker. 2 EXSC in next st. EXSC in each EXSC to st before marker. 2 EXSC in st before marker. EXSC in marked st, move marker. (34 EXSC)
R5: EXSC in each st around, move markers. (34 EXSC)
Repeat rounds 4 & 5 again. Measure toe box. If it fits comfortably, keep going with round 8. If you would like to make it bigger, repeat rounds 4 & 5 again.
R8: (Ch 3, sk 2, EXSC in next st) x 5. Ch 3, sk 3, EXSC in marked st, move marker. EXSC in next 19 st. Move marker. (25 EXSC, 6 ch 3)
R9: Ch 1, EXSC in first ch sp. (Ch 3, EXSC in next ch sp) x 5. Ch 1, EXSC in marked st, move marker. EXSC in next 19 st, move marker. (27 EXSC, 5 ch 3, 2 ch 1)
R10: Ch 3, sk ch 1 & next EXSC, EXSC in ch. (Ch 3, EXSC in next ch sp) x4. Ch 3, sk EXSC & ch 1, EXSC in marked st, move marker. EXSC in next 19 EXSC, move marker. (25 EXSC, 6 ch 3)
Repeat R9 & R10 until you reach your heel ending on an odd row. For me round 43.
Decreasing Heel:
We’re going to be leaving stitches unworked to create a decreasing, Cuban style, heel.
R44: Ch 3, sk ch 1 and EXSC, EXSC in ch 3 (Ch 3, EXSC in next ch sp) across. Ch 3, sk EXSC and ch 1, EXSC in marked st, move marker. EXSC in each st until st before marker, leave last stitch unworked. Move marker.
R45: Ch 3, sk EXSC, EXSC in ch 3. (Ch 3, EXSC in ch sp) across. Ch 3, sk marked st, EXSC in next EXSC move marker to this st. EXSC across until st before marker, leave last st unworked. Move marker.
Repeat R 45 until 3 EXSC remain between the chain spaces. On your last round, Sp sti in the last unworked stitch.
Heel completed.
LEG:
We will be working back and forth for the leg to minimize spiralling of the “back seam.”
I mark my 3 “back seam” EXSC so they are easier to see.
At this point you can increase the width of your legs as much or as little as you need to. Make sure you are trying them on as you go and writing notes about what you do on the first leg so that the second leg matches.
Turn you work and sl st into the center EXSC.
TO INCREASE THE SIZE OF THE LEGS:
Even rounds: Ch 2, turn, EXSC in 3rd st of back seam. (Ch 3, EXSC in ch) around. CH 3 EXSC in next 2 EXSC. Sl st to top of first EXSC.
Odd rounds: Ch 2, turn, EXSC in middle EXSC and next EXSC. (Ch 3, EXSC in ch) around. Ch 3, EXSC in EXSC, sl st in top of middle EXSC.
TO MAINTAIN SIZE OF LEGS:
Odd rounds: Ch 2, turn, EXSC in middle EXSC and next EXSC. Ch 1, exsc in ch sp. (Ch 3, EXSC in ch sp) around. Ch 1, EXSC in EXSC. Sl st in top of middle EXSC.
Even Rounds: Ch 2, turn, EXSC in 3rd st of back seam. Ch 3, sk ch 1 & EXSC, EXSC in ch sp. (Ch 3, EXSC in next ch sp) around. Ch 3 sk EXSC & Ch 1, EXSC in next 2 EXSC. Sl st in top of first EXSC.
Repeat these rows following whatever pattern works best for you legs, you can increase a bunch at the beginning, a little at the beginning/and a bit more at the end, or all at the end. It all depends on your leg shape. I have muscular calves, so I increased all at the beginning. Just make sure you jot down your notes so you know what worked best for you. Stop working this pattern when you are about 1 inch away from your desired height.
Finishing your stockings:
This is a detailed top, you will most likely have to fudge it to make it work. You will probably have to skip more, or fewer, sc in the first round to make it work properly. It is really just trial and error since you are creating your size as you go.
Ch 1, sc, in each EXSC. (3 SC in each ch sp, 1 sc in EXSC) around. Sl st in top of first sc.
Border Edging:
I like this nice scalloped lacy border for the stockings because it can be used ribbon, elastic, or garter belts.
Working in the round.
R1: Ch 2, (Counts as DC here and throughout rest of pattern unless otherwise noted), DC in next 2 st. I line these up with my back seam. Ch 5, sk 5 st, DC in next st. Ch 5 sk 5 st (DC in next 3 st. Ch 5 sk 5, 1 DC, Ch 5 sk 5) around. Sl st in top of ch 2.
R2: Ch 2, DC in next 2 st. Ch 3, *DC ch 2 DC* in next DC. Ch 3 (DC in next 3 DC, ch 3, *DC ch2 DC* in next dc, ch 3) around. Sl St in top of ch 2.
R3: Ch 2, DC in next 2 st. Ch 2, sk DC, 7 DC in ch sp, ch 2, sk DC, (DC in next 3 DC, ch 2, 7 DC in ch sp, ch 2) around. Sl st in top of ch 2.
R4: Ch 2, DC in next 2 st. Ch 1 [DC2TOG in next DC, picot in DC2TOG, ch 2, sk DC] 3 times, DC2TOG in next DC, picot in top of DC2TOG. Ch 1 (Dc in each of next 3 DC, ch 1 [DC2TOG in next DC, picot in DC2TOG, ch 2, sk DC] 3 times, DC2TOG in next DC, picot in top of DC2TOG, ch 1) around. Sl st in top of ch2.
Fasten off and weave in ends. You can weave ribbon or elastic through the top to hold the stockings up, or use a garter belt to hold up thigh high stockings.
As soon as I have the full downloadable tights pattern written and available for purchase, I'll add a link.
I hope you enjoy making your own set of fish nets with full bottom feet. If so, please tag me on instagram @handmadewithlovebykris or facebook @HandmadewithLoveByKris or on twitter @krishandmadeluv so I can see your stockings!
Distributing, reselling, rewriting or sharing of this pattern (or its photos) is prohibited. You may of course sell the finished product, but listing it for sale using my photos is NOT allowed.
If you have any questions regarding this pattern Please message me via FB or Instagram.
Thank you again!
Kris